That spare fridge in the garage is either collecting dust or holding a year’s worth of condiments. One conversion kit and it becomes the best thing in the room.
The idea behind a kegerator conversion is simple: you already own a refrigerator that can hold a keg. What you’re missing is the draft system that connects the keg to a faucet. That’s exactly what Beer Meister’s conversion kits are designed to provide.
One complete kegerator conversion kit, installed correctly, turns a standard fridge into a proper draft system: clean lines, controlled pressure, commercial-grade components, and cold beer on tap whenever you want it.
Table of Contents
1. What’s Actually in a Conversion Kit
2. Tower vs. Fridge Door Mount: Two Different Builds
3. Beer Meister’s 2 Faucet Tower Premium Conversion Kit
4. Sanke Kegs vs. Corny Kegs: Match Before You Buy
5. Install It in an Afternoon
6. FAQs
What’s Actually in a Conversion Kit
Before buying any keg conversion kit, understand what you’re actually getting. A complete kit should include every component between the CO₂ tank and the faucet. Incomplete kits, the ones that leave out the coupler, or ship a T-splitter instead of a real manifold, cost you more in the long run when you’re sourcing the missing pieces separately.
Beer Meister’s 2 Faucet Tower Premium Conversion Kit ($339.99, marked down from $379.99) includes:
• Stainless double faucet tower with metal nozzles, not plastic.
• 5 lb aluminum CO₂ bottle. Fillable at any homebrew shop, welding supplier, or fire station.
• 3 feet of 5/16" red commercial grade air hose and 5 feet of 3/16" commercial grade beer line.
• Stainless worm clamps and Oetiker clamps. The clamp type matters; Oetiker clamps create a permanent crimped seal that worm clamps can’t match for gas-tight integrity.
• Two blue handle lever Sanke D couplers. Compatible with virtually every major domestic American brewery.
• 2-gauge regulator connected to an air manifold with check valves. This last point is critical. A kit with a T-splitter instead of a manifold allows beer to siphon between kegs. That’s a mess nobody wants.
Everything comes assembled and ready to install. You’re not walking into a box of unmarked fittings wondering what goes where.
Tower vs. Fridge Door Mount: Two Different Builds
Beer Meister carries both tower conversion and fridge door conversion kits. They serve different setups and different aesthetics.
Tower Conversion
The tap tower mounts on top of the refrigerator. A hole goes through the top panel, the tower column drops down inside, and the beer line runs up through the insulated column to the faucet. Cold air from the cabinet naturally rises through the tower, keeping the beer line cold all the way to the pour. That\'s how you avoid that warm first ounce of foam that plagues poorly designed systems.
Beer Meister’s tower uses a 3" insulated stainless steel column. That insulation isn’t cosmetic, it’s what maintains temperature in the tower on a warm day when the cabinet door is closed.
Fridge Door Conversion
The door-mount approach drills through the refrigerator door itself, with the shank and faucet mounted flush against the door face. It’s a cleaner install for certain fridge designs and slightly less involved to set up. The trade-off is that door-mounted lines don’t benefit from the same cold-air circulation as tower systems, which can affect the first pour of the day if the fridge has been sitting idle.
Beer Meister's 2 Faucet Tower Premium Conversion Kit
The 2 Faucet Tower kit is Beer Meister’s most popular kegerator conversion kit for a reason. Two faucets mean two kegs on tap simultaneously: one commercial, one homebrew; an IPA and a lager; whatever the occasion calls for.
The dual setup uses a regulated air manifold with independent check valves on each output line. That means each keg gets its own isolated gas supply. No cross-contamination between kegs, no beer siphoning through a shared T-fitting.
The stainless steel contact points throughout: tower, nozzles, clamps, couplers, aren’t just about durability. Stainless doesn’t leach flavors into your beer over time the way chrome-plated brass can as the plating wears.
Sanke Kegs vs. Corny Kegs: Match Before You Buy
The 2 Faucet Tower Premium Kit comes configured for Sanke D-System kegs, the standard format for domestic commercial beer. If you’re planning to run homebrew Cornelius (corny) kegs, you’ll need ball lock disconnects instead of the D couplers.
Corny kegs use a completely different connection system: separate ball lock posts for gas-in and liquid-out, each with its own quick disconnect. Beer Meister carries ball lock disconnects and homebrew conversion components separately, and our team can help you configure the right kit before you order.
“When someone calls us after buying a kit that doesn’t fit their kegs, the disappointment in their voice is real. Five minutes on the phone before you order saves all of that.”
Install It in an Afternoon
Most people complete a tower conversion in two to three hours the first time. The main steps:
• Mark and drill the tower mounting hole through the top panel (a hole saw handles this cleanly).
• Feed the beer line down through the tower column before mounting, it’s much easier before the tower is bolted down.
• Connect beer lines from couplers to tower shanks, gas lines from manifold to couplers.
• Mount the CO₂ regulator on the tank, run the gas line to the manifold input.
• Set regulator output to 10–12 PSI for most domestic lagers and ales.
• Apply soapy water to every gas connection, pressurize, and look for bubbles before you tap anything.
• Load the kegs, tap them, let them rest 30 minutes, then pour the first test pint.
Ready to turn that garage fridge into a proper draft system? Shop Beer Meister’s kegerator conversion kits at beermeister.com/collections/conversion-kits. Questions? Call us at 1-888-453-4233, we’ve been doing this for over 50 years.
FAQs
What does a kegerator conversion kit include?
Beer Meister’s 2 Faucet Tower Premium Kit includes a stainless dual faucet tower, 5 lb CO₂ bottle, commercial grade beer and gas line, stainless clamps, two D-System Sanke couplers, and a dual-gauge regulator connected to a check-valve manifold. Everything is assembled and ready to install.
Do I need to drill my refrigerator to install a conversion kit?
Yes, for tower-style kits. One hole through the top panel accommodates the tower shank. Beer Meister’s kits include all the hardware for that connection. A standard drill and a 1-inch hole saw handle the cut cleanly. Door-mount kits drill through the door panel instead.
Why does the Beer Meister kit use a manifold instead of a T-splitter?
T-splitters allow pressure to equalize between the two gas lines, which means beer can siphon backward from one keg into the other when pressure differs. The check-valve manifold in Beer Meister’s kit prevents reverse flow on each individual line, keeping each keg isolated and your beer clean.
Can I use this kit with homebrew Corny kegs?
The standard kit is configured for Sanke D-System commercial kegs. For Cornelius (corny) kegs, you’ll need ball lock disconnects instead of the D-System couplers. Beer Meister carries both and can help you configure the right setup for your keg type before you order.
How much CO₂ does a 5 lb tank hold and how long does it last?
A 5 lb CO₂ tank typically pushes through five to six five-gallon kegs before needing a refill. Usage depends on serving pressure and how often you disconnect and reconnect. Refills run $15 to $25 at most welding supply stores, homebrew shops, and some sporting goods retailers.
Beer Meister | Now in Plymouth, MN | beermeister.com | 1-888-453-4233
